Question:
What neck stock should I use for which period, and what
type of buckle is used with each style/width?
Answer:
The neck stock to use depends on what time period you are
doing, which determines the “height” (or width) of the stock.
If you will be using the neck stock for early to mid-18th century
(1700s), the narrowest one with one buttonhole should be used. This one
is as described and depicted in the original Garsault encyclopedia
instructions. You will need a buckle with a single T-style end, which is
called an "Anchor chape", to go into the single buttonhole on the tab.
The "prongs" go into the linen tongue at the other end of the stock.
This means it looks identical to a breeches buckle! [I suspect they were
common buckles, and used interchangeably at the time, but who am I to
throw a stick in the wheels???] The other possibility is that there were
buckles with only one "stud" (button-like knob), but to the best of our
knowledge none are being reproduced, if they have been documented.
For the narrowest neck stock, with a single buttonhole, I would suggest
either of these Anchor chape buckles:
If you are doing a wider, later 1700s stock (the middle size in our
pattern), I would suggest this buckle with three studs:
And, if you are doing the widest stock, for early 1800s, I would suggest
this buckle with four studs:
Be sure to use very fine cloth for the gathered neck portion, and a nice
quality linen for the ends. The cloth must be very fine, like
handkerchief linen or very fine cotton, in order to gather up well. The
linen on the ends must be good quality, not too coarse but not to fine
for the prongs, so that it will withstand the wear of the buckle. This
will ensure success!
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